12/24V Motor de Estores para Caravana Compatível com EL-4280-1230, EL-4260-1250, EL-4280P, EL-4270P, Ligado por Cabo para Estores Motorizados de Caravana

Universal 12V RV Roller Shade Motor, Fits 1 3/16" (30mm) & 1-1/8" (28mm) Tubes, Replacement Motor for Motorized RV Blinds & Windshield Shades

Great price perfect fit works great so far east to adjust with the special tool

GET THE RIGHT MOTOR
My RV is a 2011 Itasca Reyo (same as Winnebago Via) and uses the AutoMotion Shade model FLX-660 sun visor. The shade got to where it would not move beyond an inch in either direction, and the recommended replacement motor (EL-1280P-1230) is about $250. I found TWO potential replacement motors on Amazon for $68 (the DM25DS-12V and the AM25-1.2/30-D12V). Choosing the right motor depends on the shade tube’s INTERNAL groove configuration. Photo A (my RV) requires the AM25-1.2/30-D12V motor. Photo B requires the DM25DS-12V. To see the inside of the tube, you need to drop the shade assembly, remove the assembly’s end bracket on the on the side with the motor, and pull the motor from the tube (see set screw below).

SET SCREW
My original motor had a set screw that held the motor in place inside the tube (fully unroll the shade to see/access the set screw). I was told the replacement motor would not require a set screw because the compression fit alone would be sufficient to secure it inside the tube. I felt the compression fit was inadequate (I felt the motor moved in/out too easily compared to the original), but the original motor is about 2 inches longer than the original so I could not use the original set screw hole. I measured the distance that the new motor went into the tube and drilled a small hole into the tube a little further down from the original hole to align with the midpoint of the PLASTIC hub attached to the end of the new motor. This hole should be large enough to allow the shaft of the set screw to easily drop through it and stop at the screw head (the head of the set screw needs to flush with the tube to keep it from fraying the shade). I then re-inserted the new motor into the tube and confirmed it was over the plastic hub. Going through the first hole, I drilled a smaller pilot hole into PLASTIC hub to ensure the set screw wouldn’t crack the plastic hub. I know this sounds involved, but it’s actually very simple. Also, I re-used the original set screw for this.

WIRING
Pay attention to the wiring because polarity determines which direction the shade will move. Reversing polarity will mean pressing the raise button will LOWER the shade. One of the two wires coming out of the motor will have a stripe…mark that wire with a piece of tape. Next, temporarily connect the motor wires to the RV wiring and press the raise switch to confirm the motor turns in the direction that will raise the shade. If it turns in the opposite direction, reverse the wires. Place a piece of tape on the RV wire that corresponds with the tape the motor’s striped wire (that you taped earlier) so you will know what to connect to what once you install the new motor in the tube.

LIMITING THE SHADE TRAVEL
If the style of your AutoMotion shade is like mine, the upper limit stop should be set at the point the flex arms just touch the stops attached to the shade’s mounting bracket. The lower limit should be set to stop just BEFORE the shade’s flex arms FULLY extend.

ADJUSTING THE SHADE TRAVEL
When installed in my RV, the shade’s mounting bracket is recessed making the motor’s limit adjustment knobs inaccessible. I made the adjustments with someone holding the bracket. It is at this point that the directions provided with the motor become unclear. The directions simply refer to the side on which the motor slides into the tube (left or right side). However, you ALSO have to consider the side the shade winds ONTO the tube (frontside or backside). Which knob controls the upper and lower limit depends on the way the shade winds around the tube. My shade drops on the WINDSHIELD side of the tube when the motor is inserted on the left (driver’s side) of the tube. This meant the “Lower Limit” knob actually adjusted the UPPER travel limit and the “Upper Limit” knob controlled the LOWER travel limit.

When adjusting the travel of the shade, it’s easier to start with the shade halfway down. My shade is controlled by a toggle switch, so the motor only receives power WHILE the switch is PRESSED. The trick to KEEP pressing the switch WHILE turning the corresponding adjustment knob. If the shade stops moving before you reach the desire limit, just turn the knob in the opposite direction and the shade will start moving again in one-inch “steps”. When the shade reaches the desired limit, release the toggle switch button, and repeat the same process to set the other limit.

Once completed and tested, reinstall the mounting assembly onto the ceiling (or wall). The ENTIRE process can be done in less than an hour. It took me a little longer because I had to figure out that power needed to be CONTINUOUSLY provided to the motor while adjusting the travel limit (the directions assume you have a SEPARATE switch for each travel direction as opposed to a toggle switch). Because I had a toggle, I had to keep the up or down side pressed to maintain power to the motor.

wouldnot work in my tubes returned to you on day of delivery waiting for credit Thanks

Older Hunter Douglas blinds use the Somfy 12 Volt LT 28-H1 motor. It is no longer made. Rollerhouses sell the perfect replacement: AM25-1.2/30-D. The replacement worked perfectly with existing switches and universal automation systems. Only minor tinkering was needed to fit motor into the blind tube, easy. Terrific solution when there was none offered from Hunter Douglas or Somfy.